Plymouth was bombed flat during the Second World War, and the Theatre Royal (replacing an early 19th century predecessor) was perhaps the longest-delayed part of its postwar reconstruction. It may not be exactly lovely, but its productions are much loved. For this is one of the largest regional theatres in Britain, better equipped than anything in London apart from the National Theatre, and famous for starting runs of blockbuster musicals. The Theatre Royal has a huge and enthusiastic local audience, and its productions - typically done in conjunction with impresarios such as Cameron Mackintosh - tour nationally and internationally.

So that was the first surprise. I had been expecting some little local theatre company in a little building, and what I found was a factory, and a big one. TR2 - standing logically enough for Theatre Royal 2 - is where things substantial and insubstantial are made. Here actors rehearse, here scenery is constructed, here costumes are made, and it is all on an industrial scale.