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Alsop, Gehry, Libeskind, Diamond, Kuwabara and Honest Ed: Toronto's cultural buildings renaissance gathers pace. Whatever happened to Canadian understatement?

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People are friendly in Toronto. They talk to you spontaneously in the street. "Interesting place, huh?" is a typical opening gambit when I am caught pointing my camera at Will Alsop's new Walking-City extension to the Ontario College of Art and Design (OCAD). Policemen and women on bicycles stop to chat. Streetcar drivers talk as they go. Even the beggars, of whom there are many, are strangely unthreatening to anyone hardened in the streets of European or American cities. They are all anxious to know: what do I think?

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