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Lunch at Tempelhof

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The restaurant is virtually empty, and verging on the crepuscular. Behind me in the tall rectangular departures hall, the sprinkling of staff at the check-in desks is doing its best to look engaged and occupied: a baggage conveyor clanks round and round, endlessly. Through the glass in front of me I look out across asphalt and grass, stretching to a mound in the middle distance. This view is overshadowed by a big external roof, a tough, column-free latticework of green-painted girders, curving round to a vanishing point on either side. It occurs to me that I could be in the director's box beneath the canopy of some enormous sports stadium, waiting for the match to begin. It turns out that the architect had much the same idea.

I should have been here in 1948-9. This is Tempelhof Airport, and that was the Berlin Airlift: planes arriving and departing every few seconds, laden with supplies to the besieged Berliners. Such a flow of planes made an almost solid aerial connection: the German word for that extraordinary event, Luftbrücke, or Air Bridge, describes it pretty exactly. It was a road across the sky. I do not know if Tempelhof's architect was there to see it. There is very little I know about him.

Or I should have been here in 1937, when the place was brand new and someone was carving the triumphal German eagles at the ends of the approach colonnades. Half-close your eyes as you walk up to the entrance facade of Tempelhof - all stripped-classical details hewn in limestone - and you can imagine the Nazi banners stretched across the front. There is a little pediment at the top which looks as if it should have supported a swastika, though I do not know if it ever did. It is idle curiosity, but you cannot help wondering: just as you do when you go to the Biennale gardens in Venice and encounter the more conventionally classical German Pavilion of the same period, and see the screw-holes in the centre of the pediment where something or other has been removed.

Carved in 1937

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